A Tale of Two Salisburys

We’re delighted to share this great blogpost, written by one of our University of Winchester volunteers - Kyle Flaherty. You can discover more about Kyle on our HistBites team page.

Sandy beaches, boardwalk arcades, and deep-sea fishing: I’m sure these aren’t exactly the first things that come to mind when you hear the name Salisbury. But over three thousand miles away from the busy cathedral city in Wiltshire, there’s a little beach town in Essex County, Massachusetts with the same name.

When I moved out of Salisbury, Massachusetts and arrived in England back in 2019, one of the first things I noticed was how many town names that New England had borrowed from it. Andover, Portsmouth, and Amesbury were places I visited frequently, so seeing their names pop up on road signs was a unique experience for me!


How homesick Puritans started a tradition

New England has the Puritans to thank for many of its historical connections with England. Puritanism was one of the many religious movements that emerged in 16th century Europe during the Protestant Reformation. While the movement was widely tolerated under Elizabeth I, that changed when many Puritans accused the Church of England of not going far enough with its reforms. They saw practices like the use of music and incense during worship or using rings in marriage as being too similar to Catholicism.

Under James I, these disagreements caused many of them to separate from the Church of England. As the King was the leader of both the Church and the state, this decision was seen as a direct insult to him. Many faced criminal prosecution, while others were even executed for their beliefs. Because of this, they fled to Holland where they lived in exile.

In 1619, a small group of exiles returned to England to gain support for a permanent home in America, and in the next year, these Puritans set sail aboard the Mayflower. When they landed in Massachusetts, Plymouth Colony was founded and the tradition of naming new settlements after places in England began. Throughout the next century, familiar names such as Southampton, Reading, Winchester, and Boston began to appear across Plymouth Colony and the Massachusetts Bay Colony.

The Puritan by Augustus St Gaudens. Photo by Carol M Highsmith

Salisbury and Salisbury—a troubled history

Eighteen years after Plymouth Colony was founded, a small group of colonists reached the northernmost point of Massachusetts, where the Merrimack River flowed into the Atlantic. These wetlands were once used by Pennacook peoples for fishing and hunting until European diseases and conflict with neighbouring Mohawk tribes pushed them out of the area.

The Massachusetts Bay Company granted the colonists’ request to build a settlement, and the town of Colchester was born. Only—they changed the name to Salisbury a month later; one of the colonists was an influential member of the company from Salisbury, England.

Life in 17th century Salisbury was hard. The dead were buried with granite slabs over them to prevent wolves from digging up their graves. Three of its residents were accused of witchcraft during the Salem Witch Trials. Outbreaks of smallpox and influenza were common.

In the same century, Salisbury, England had its own share of struggles. With the English Civil War raging across the country, it wasn’t long before the conflict reached the city itself. Salisbury Cathedral suffered damage and looting, while the Bishop’s Palace was almost entirely destroyed. Additionally, parts of the cathedral were used to hold Dutch prisoners of war.

During the Second World War, both places felt the rippling effects of war. In Salisbury, Massachusetts, the US Department of War turned Salisbury Beach into a fortress. After the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, they built coastal defence batteries, military barracks, and observation towers to ward off any potential attacks against the neighbouring Newburyport Harbor. However, the Axis powers never took an interest in the small Massachusetts beach town.

Luckily for Salisbury, England, it too escaped the war mostly unscathed. Its centuries-old cathedral was spared by Luftwaffe bombing as it was used by pilots as a landmark toward other locations across the UK. However, the city was an important staging ground for Commonwealth forces, as well as Americans and Poles. In 1943, American soldiers built a boxing ring in Victoria Park, where American heavyweight champion Joe Louis fought the English middleweight champion Freddie Mills in an exhibition match.

Why I love Salisbury

In the modern-day, both Salisburys have found their success with tourism. People across Wiltshire and beyond make the trip to Salisbury for its bustling markets and rich history, while Salisbury, Massachusetts is a popular destination with New Englanders for its sunny beaches, fried dough, and lively boardwalks. Both places are immensely beautiful in their own ways.

Salisbury, Massachusetts is a typical New England beach town. If you’ve never been to one, think of Amity Island from Jaws, but without the man-eating shark (the film was shot in Massachusetts!). Along the boardwalk, the salty smell of the ocean mixes with the scent of pizza. Gulls caw, the ocean crashes against the bright yellow sand, and the occasional fisherman shouts in excitement at catching a striped bass from the shore. Many of the shopfronts still have original signs from the 1970s, but for me, that’s part of the charm.

In Salisbury, England, one of the first sights I saw when visiting was the River Avon. I was taken aback by its clear water and the vibrant green grass within it. In the city itself, traditional pubs and shopfronts line its twisting cobblestone roads and open market. While walking along Butcher Row, I discovered that some of the buildings even date back to medieval times.

Visiting the cathedral was a humbling experience as well. Its towering architecture and expansive hall absorbed all sound, while the stained glass windows bathed the inside in natural light. I was sad when my visit to Salisbury was over, but the city was a wonderful introduction to England and one that I will never forget.

Interior of Salisbury Cathedral

Growing up in Salisbury, Massachusetts, I never spent much time questioning the origin of the name. In the years I’ve spent living in England, however, I have discovered a unique link between two places across the globe. While the two Salisburys have dramatically different atmospheres, cultures, and histories, they are both wonderful places and I am deeply grateful to have seen both in my lifetime.